2017-10-11 Pamplona - a day of reflexion and rest

Ernest Hemingway honored (read the text )

Strolling around in Pamplona. Buying tickets for the bus to Biarritz. Visiting "El Corte Ingles". Well not so much really. More a day to relax and rest before returning home tomorrow. This was a spare day in case something should happen during the walk that caused a delay. But it didn't, so it became a day of rest. But really, when walking through the marked camino route through the city I stumbled on one of my friends from France. I told him that I was stopping here and was going home tomorrow. He gave me a big hug.

The most famous of the bull run streets

In the afternoon I strolled through other parts of the city new to me. They gave a good impression. Noted that this must be a fairly big city, bigger than Gothenburg I think. Among other things I passed the street and "Plaza del Toro" where

He even got this plaza

Ernest Hemingway pondering his favorite city

the very famous bull run of the San Fermin festival at the beginning of July occurs.

And who is the hero here - Ernest H - again! Statue, plaza, bar, hero, friend of the people ...

En la noche descubría nuevas partes de la ciudad. Entre otros las calles famosas del corriente de los toros durante festival del San Fermín. Y la leyenda de la ciudad, Ernest Hemingway fuera Plaza de Toros o más correcta, plaza del Hemingway con estatua y muchos más.

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As the closing words of this blog I translate what I got from that lady in the church yesterday... I think that the words contains little of the Camino soul and why the Camino becomes a part of you - if you are open to it.

Como palabras finales de este camino largo he traducido las palabras que recibí en la iglesia en el día pasado. Eran buenos. 

Marking of "the Way, El Camino" through the streets of Pamplona

El Camino - The Way

It is the Way that makes you a pilgrim, since the way to Santiago is not only a trail to walk to reach somewhere, and not a test to get a reward. "El Camino de Santiago" is at the same time a metaphor and an immediate reality since it occurs inside and outside the days the pilgrimage last, and continues to affect the whole life, when you allow the Way to penetrate you, to change you, to convert you to a pilgrim.

The Way makes your life simpler as you backpack gets lighter, meaning the less load on your back the more you understand how little you need to live.

The Way fraternizes. The little you carry you must be willing to share with others. For even if you started alone, you will walk it through together with others.

The Way give birth to fellowship, a welcoming fellowship, A fellowship that shows interest in the way of the other, in sharing words and deeds.

The Way puts demands on you. You must raise before the sun despite tiredness or blisters. You must walk while the rising sun turns the darkness of the morning to the light of the day. Your rest is there for you to be able to continue.

The Way invites you to reflect, to be surprised, to accept, to deepen, to stop, to be silent, to listen, to admire, to bless the nature, to sense your co-walkers, yourself, and God.

***

The Pilgrims Blessings

• Blessed are you pilgrim, when you discover that the Way (El Camino) opens your eyes to the invisible.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, as you backpack empties little by little and you heart gets filled with silence and life.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, when you discover that a step back to help someone else is more worth than hundred steps forward without noting the fellow at your side.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, when you lack word of thanks for all that surprises you as you walk.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, if you not only walk the Way (El Camino), but lets the Way transform you.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, if you during the Way find yourself and if you learn to stop, watch, listen and take care of your heart.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, when you step by step, little by little, find your Way inside yourself.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, when you discover that the real Way begins when you have completed it.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, when you reflect, contemplate the Way and discover that it is full of names and surprises.
• Blessed are you pilgrim, if you understand that it is not you yourself that shall reach the goal, but that you will reach the goal together with others.

El Camino

Es el Camino que te hace un peregrino, ya que el camino a Santiago no solo es un sendero para llegar a algún sitio, tampoco una prueba para obtener un galardón. El camino de Santiago es al mismo tiempo una metáfora y una realidad enseguida, porque ocurre dentro y fuera el tiempo real durante los días de peregrinación, y después toda la vida, cuando permitas al camino penetrarte, cambiarte, convertirte a un peregrino.

El Camino hace tu vida más fácil cuando tu mochila se aligera, cuanta menos carga a tu espalda, más entiendas que poco necesitas para vivir.

El Camino fraternice. El poco que llevas hay que ser dispuesto compartir con otros. Porque, aunque empiezas solo, llevarás a cabo en compañía de otros.

El Camino da a luz comunidad, una comunidad que da bienvenida, da interés al camino del otro, para compartir.

El Camino te exige. Hay que levantarte ante el sol pese al cansancio o ampollas. Hay que caminar en las tinieblas del amanecer cuando cambie a la luz del día. El descanso existe para lo que puedes continuar.

El Camino te invita a reflexionar, sorprenderte, aceptar, profundizar, parar, escuchar, admirar, bendecir la naturaleza, percibir a tus compañeros de camino, a ti mismo, a Dios.

Las bienaventuranzas del Peregrino

• Dichoso tú, peregrino, cuando descubrías que el Camino abre tus ojos para el invisible.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, si comprendas que no eres tú mismo que llegarás a la meta, pero llegarás a la meta junto con otros.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, cuando contemplas el Camino y descubras que está lleno de nombres y sorpresas.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, cuando poco a poco tu mochila vacía y tu corazón llena con silencio y vida. 
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, cuando descubras que un paso hacia atrás para asistir alguno merece más que cien pasos arriba sin notar el prójimo a tu lado.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, cuando faltas las palabras de gracia para que todo te sorprenda cuando caminas.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, si no solo caminas el Camino, pero puede el Camino transformarte.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, si durante el Camino descubres tú mismo y aprendes a parar, mirar, escuchar y cuidar tu corazón.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, cuando paso a paso, poco a poco, descubres tu camino dentro ti mismo.
  
• Dichoso tú, peregrino, cuando descubres que el Camino verdadero comienza cuando has terminado.  

2017-10-10 Larrasoaña - Pamplona (25/880 km)

This is not Spain?! Hmmm...

The last Camino walking day for me. A bit of a sorrow but also a little ease. Since almost 900 km, makes it impact on this old man. I have lost several kilos and got some problems with my old broken shoulder. But my feet have been functioning well. Only one or two blisters not too serious. I seem to have found the formula, with the right preventive tape.

Looking back at the road today

An albergue connecting to the bridge

Today's etapp was not too long. Was reminded about the internal fights in Spain where now Catalans and earlier - and now - Basques and more groups don't really feel like Spaniards. I have just heard too much of this I must say.

I passed a chapel/monasterio/albergue in Zabaldika. I and others were pulled in. I saw the famous statue "Nuestra Señora de las Nieves" and was met by a very friendly Sister of "Society of the Sacred Heart" that shared good text in all languages with us. I got a Swedish version that I thought I could use as an concluding message in this blog after translating it to English.

I'm from Romania ...

... and I'm from Hungary.

The final Magdalena bridge into Pamplona old town 

Soon I and some others were in the suburbs of Pamplona. Walking on and on in those. A change after all nature. Finally about to reach the Magdalena bridge and the road up to the old city. Then two of the people I had met passed me the Romanian and the Hungarian. I walked a bit with the Hungarian and shared some thoughts.

Well up into the old city our ways split and they walked on while I started to look around to see where the bus station was and if there was a hotel nearby. Well I located both the bus station and a hotel nearby where I'm staying right now.

One funny thing though. The bus station is fairly small when you see it from above but very big under ground. I checked various things there, timetables, tickets etc.

But then in the waiting area I found the girl from the Netherlands that I had talked to in Larrasoaña. She had walked the Camino Fraces earlier but wanted less people around. She was taking the bus from Pamplona to San Sebastian at the northern coast then to walk the Camino del Costa from San Sebastian to Santiago. So I got a chance to to wish her Buen camino and suggested that she tried the good food in San Sebastian.

El ultimo día como caminante. Pasé una iglesia/monasterio/albergue en Zabaldika. Recibí de una monja un texto en mi lengua, sueco, entre todas las lenguas de su mesa. Es un buen texto y he traducido este a inglés como unas palabras finales. Afueras del Pamplona, las murallas y despues las últimas palabras de los nuevos amigos. Mi camino largo está terminando aquí.

2017-10-09 Roncevalles - Larrasoaña (28/855 km)

Even Hemingway was fishing in Roncevalles (Burguete)

Burguete street view

Early up not least the Koreans that were everywhere - a number of younger people of both sexes. The other 3 persons in my sleeping compartment were Koreans.

Very shortly after Roncevalles (Orreaga) you come to Burguete (Auritz). Eveything has double name here and one is always in Basque.

But it was the friendly face of Ernest Hemingway that met me in Burguete. Before the civil war he was much up here and fished in the streams and maybe hunted when he did not watch the bullfights in Pamplona. I have even written a paper in Spanish about that and his involvement in the civil war.

Did the Roman road start here - NO!

Navarra is a green country and and initially the trail had almost too good standard that almost reminded me about Roman roads but here using cement.

If you are 8 years old you can bike the Caminao

Pilgrim on the way

Some never got further

A bit later I met what I could hardly believe. A family of four people walking. One mom, one dad and two kids. One maybe 12+ the other perhaps 8. And the kids were biking!! I saw the dad take a turn on the biggest boy while he walked a bit. I saw them off and on during the day and they were staying at the same albergue as I in Larrasoaña. What an adventure!!!!

And of course the sign of a dead Asian  (Japan?) that I actually remembered from my first walk.

Larrasoaña is not the biggest place on earth. The restaurant that was there on my first walk had closed, but I found a shop to buy some food and another restaurant so I did not have to starve that night either. And met and talked to a number of people around the table. From USA (Vermont), Romania, Hungary, Italy etc, etc.

I really felt the Camino spirit growing. I had been missing that in France due to my limited French.

Creo que el acontecimiento del día era la familia con dos adultos y dos jóvenes. Y los dos jóvenes en bicicletas los adultos con mochilas caminaban a pie. Y todos estos en la ruta hasta Santiago. ¡Qué aventura! Durmieron en el mismo albergue que yo. Descubrí que este pueblo estaba un sitio para encontrar amigos para el resto del Camino o para solo un día. ¡El espíritu del Camino!

2017-10-08 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - Roncevalles (27/827 km)

Morning moon over the mountains

A fantastic day. Staring early in the morning mist bur soon I got over it and walked up all hills. Not difficult since the way is paved two thirds of the way, but hill after hill. In total 1.250 m up and then almost 500 m down to Roncevalles. I tried to to take  a photo of about the same view at two heights. You see the mist at the bottom of the valleys. A number of people were walking this day.

Up a bit over the clouds

If the weather is fine there are not many problems in getting over the pass except physical if you are at your first day and have not exercised before. The real problems comes days with bad weather and clouds, rain and maybe snow. Then you can very easily get lost if you just have a sight of a couple of meters. And there are abysses. This has resulted in a number of rescue operations and wounded or even killed people, so now the way over the pass is closed from first of november. You then have to take a lower road close to the highway.

Since I walked here 11 years ago they have built a new coffee-stop in Orisson some 7 km from Saint Jean. And yes, I took a coffee.

On the way

A bit further

On the French side there are moors with sheep and cattle, but passing over to the Spanish side there are more trees.

Even higher

High enough you could even see the pollution layer in the clouds.

Orisson  - a new place to get some coffee

Even a bit of pollution in the air

Once in a while you see a cross at the wayside. Someone fell here. Maybe a heart attack or so. And maybe a good way to end - on the go.

Sheeps on the French side

Someone stopped walking here

Rocks by the side of the track

The walk was also a test of my memory. And that really proved that the memory changes what it saw. There is a madonna statue at a rock by the roadside. I remembered her as natural size but she was only about a meter high. I also had some other memories of the first walk that did not prove to be entirely correct.

Fontaine de Roland

At the border between France and Spain there is the source of Roland. Named after the famous epos from the battle up here. Roland the hero of the epos from the army of Charlemagne fell after a heroic fight killed by the moors, but in reality probably by the basque.

Should I take a horse the rest of the way?

Missing Roland I had to replace our him at the source, there was a lady that offered to take my photo.

Yours truly at Fontaine de Roland

Forrest this high up - yes!

Rescue hut for bad weather 

There were plenty of horses up here. I caught som with my camera. Then on the Spanish side you walked through a wood for a while. When that ended you were remembered about the weather danger up here. They had built a rescue hut.

Finally I reached Col de Lepoeder at 1.450 m with its absolutely breathtaking view of Spain. I remembered so well my reaction from my fist walk, that I in a way was seeing the promised land. And I felt something similar now.

Roncevalles - monastery and everything else

From Col de Lepoeder at 1450 m - The promised land!

Then you should go down 500 m. The fist time I took a small road. That is advisable for walkers not having strong legs. But here I determined that I had strong leg legs so I took the steeper trail that goes through the forest all the way down. Fully OK but my legs were tired when I got down. I was also missing the view one had from the road, so I don't know what is the best choice.

Finally at the famous monastery. It had really been renovated for pilgrims. I remembered a gigantic sleeping hall with two story beds. But now it was still a big hall but with a number of compartments with four beds. Comfortable. And volunteer hospitaleros (hosts) from Holland received you, very friendly. And there were a number of people coming over the mountains, maybe up to 150 - 200 or so. So the hospitaleros had a job.

Church interior - Roncevalles

After the evening missa (mass) - you can't miss it. They always read from which country the pilgrims have come that day. And I represented Sweden. And the dinner afterward was a good meeting point for people from different countries that you would meet again the coming days. Many young that were at the end of their studies. And a number of oldies like me. The language around the table was no longer French but English. And I really felt the good spirit.

Pero después los días ordinarios hay otros tres días. Y en primero de estos caminaba encima de las montañas Pirineos a Roncesvalles. Un día fantástico y duro. La col Lepoeder tiene una altitud de 1.450 m y Saint Jean está en 200 m. Un día que hace sol y una vista infinita. Y Roncevalles estaba improbado con nuevas dormitorios etc. Mucha gente de todos los países que hablabamos todas las lenguas. Y en la misa del noche - "un de Suecia". !Yo!

2017-10-07 Ostabat - Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (25/800 km)

Finally I have reached Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I'm gathering power to walk up the hills tomorrow. They have promised good weather so I think it will spectacular.

The pastoral Basque landscape in morning mist

Well fist of all something about yesterday night. I was out having dinner at a small restaurant in Ostabat together with a french guy that I had met off and on the last week. He is an architect. But the interesting thin is that also "the illustrated girls" participated in that meal. It proved that they too came from Quebec in Canada. One of them spoke a little English. But their french accent is very special.

The pilgrims office where you get your credentials

The river Nive that goes straight through town

Inside the church

Mr Walker himself in the Le Puy T-shirt

Pilgrim street straight to the old town

The walking today was rather undramatic. A very hilly landscape but the "Chemin" did not go up on those hills but kept reasonably near the main highway through a number of small Basque villages.

There was not much service until we reached Saint-Jean-le-Vieux where we the french architect and I had a beer together. It is said that this village was the original entry point for walking across the Pyrenees during the medieval ages and earlier.

But we continued to today's Saint-Jean-Pied-de Port. Also there the old town is situated inside fortress walls. An the pilgrim street with lots and lots of tourists goes straight through. A lot of albergues the pilgrims office and of course a number of souvenir shops. Walking through from the port of St Jean de Compostelle to Port d'Espange. I was out a while to see the city and met many of my friends from the last weeks. Among others the American-Norwegian triple. And of course I was for the occasion dressed in the Le Puy T-shirt that I got from my German friends with whom I walked to Le Puy during spring. Mission accomplished! Here reported! For the photo on the Nive bridge I have to thank one of my french friends that I kidnapped there for this.

But for present friends and acquaintances - here in this town our ways split. Some will walk over the Pyrenees to Roncevalles and one take the GR10 to connect to the Northern Camino. Some others will go home and yet others will make a tour by bus along the northern coast of Spain. On the other hand the city ifs full of new pilgrims from everywhere so I'll not be alone tomorrow.

El día final. El día de Saint-Jean-Pied-de Port. Con un poco niebla en la mañana en este paisaje vasco fantástico. Y St Jean lleno de peregrinos, albergues y la oficina peregrino oficial. Pero también turistas, turistas, turistas. Saint Jean como un punto de separación de todos que he encontrado durante las últimas semanas. Los caminos conducen a direcciones diferentes, a casa, a Santiago…

2017-10-06 Aroue - Ostabat (28/775 km)

A small basque village

The pelota wall - so typical

It was a good gite that I was staying in Aroue. And mysterious lady and her friend were there. They came from Montreal i Canada and consequently spoke fluent French but also good English. They had walked from Le Puy, but I don't really know how much. Around the table were also a teacher from Coventry England. He was a language teacher and spoke fluently French, German and Spanish. In addition a lady from Seoul, Korea and a french couple. We had a good night together. It started with the mysterious lady accused me for stealing hear T-shirt after washing and drying. And I had. So I handed it back ceremoniously. She maintained that it was too small for me.

Being a bit sleepy in the morning I followed a road for too long. I discovered that on my GPS and had to turn back - and pass all the others in an uphill. I also met the couple from Navarrenx, that are actually staying at the gite in Ostabat where I'm staying tonight. The recommended me to pick some chestnuts, there are plenty of them on the ground here. Then boil them for about 20 - 30 minutes. According to them they would be delicious after that.

Passed a number of small basque village. All looking fine as usual in the basque countries, but really small and no service in them.

The Gibraltar stone where ways meet

Santiago in the chapel at the hills

Soon Ostabat 

Passed the stone of Gibraltar the marks the point where three of the four Santiago roads merges to one - Camino Frances as it is called in Spain. The fourth goes through the pass of Somport and join Camino Frances in Puente la Reina in Spain. After that the GR65 in a broad stony track goes up over some fine hills. On one of those is the chapel d'Harambeltz with Our Lady (well locked in and difficult to see) and Santiago watching me while I had lunch - tuna. There was no service in today's villages before Ostabat. At the end of the meal "the illustrated girls" showed up. Seemingly, possibly, tattooed all over. The fine view towards the Pyrenees disappeared in the rain.

Then not far from Ostabat. Located a gite in the small village and many of those that I have met are here. Was out buying some batteries to my camera, to which I had borrowed some of my GPS batteries during the day. Waiting for the dinner at 7 pm.

Tomorrow Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Just some 23 km away.

En la noche pasado estaba relevada, la mujer misteriosa. Ella y su amiga llegaban de Montreal, Canadá. Habían comenzado en Le Puy y – naturalmente – hablaban tanto francés como inglés. Hoy, otro día con lluvia. Pero funciona muy bien entre las colinas vascas. 

2017-10-05 Navarrenx - Aroue (23/747 km)

I thought it was a deer - but it was a goat (near Navarrenx)

A day like just most other days, with the difference that I should only walk a little more that 20 km to Aroue. Happily no rain and a lot of forest.

It was in Aroue it happened. I stood at the crossing and wondered if I should stay or continue. I came to the conclusion that it probably was to long to walk via St Palace to stay there overnight so I decided to stay and first check the public gite. It is situated in the village itself a bit of the GR65. It was open but no food possibility close to it. So I went back to the gite that I had seen on the way in. And it was open and I could eat and have my things washed. (They are actually being washed at the other end of the room where I'm sitting right now.) So I took that.

To my surprise the mystical lady and her friend showed up. It's like she is following me. But I don't really think that this is the case. It is just that we are planning in a similar way. And I probably have to change my idea about her friend. She seems to be walking too. At least today.

Have some problem with my normal camera. The batteries are out and I have no possibility to buy any right here in the middle of nowhere in the Basque country, far away from the nearest city.

Consequently - no photos today. Well one photo. There was obviously some life in the present batteries.

Un día con una caminata corto, solo 23 km para adaptase a los días que viene. Descubrí un malentendido en el cruce de Aroue. Allí no tenía una tienda no tenía un bar. Por esto volvía un poco y escogí u albergue que vi cuando pasaba un poco antes. Es bueno. 

2017-10-04 Artez-de-Béan - Navarrenx (33/724 km)

The river "Gave de Pau"

A chair for the tired pilgrim at the wayside

A nice house along the way

The abbey in Sauverlade

 Wise from the earlier food problems I stated the day by visiting a bread shop and then moved on until I crossed the river "Gave de Pau". At the other side a bit I had the morning coffee in a small shop in Maslacq. A guy that I had seen several times showed me the way. Unfortunately he only spoke french. But he popped up later after I has passed a number valleys and hill ridges. The I found him at the coffe shop and bar at the abbey in Sauverlade. And not only him als the mysterious lady with earrings, light backpack and matching colors sat there and spoke to my may pilgrim - in french. I had passed and met her several times. But seemingly she spoke only french or at least did not want to talk to anyone in another language. A somewhat mysterious lady - she seemed to have a female partner that supported her to and fro from a car. May be she is a famous artist that is walking the way. I noted that she attended her blistered feet when she believed that no one saw. The last time I saw her was when we passed the city fortress walls of the Navarrenx inner city. Then she saw the two men from Sauverlade outside a pilgrim bar. And she went to them. I wonder who she is.

Far away in the clouds - the Pyrenees

There was a good water source at the side

Otherwise, after the morning mist and sometimes light rain it cleared up a bit in the afternoon and got for me uncomfortably very warm and humid. Nevertheless you could see the Pyrenees among the clouds. Finally

At some places you as a pilgrim could rest. And sometimes you were give a good quote as in this case reminding about the importance of water, Well, I needed to clean up old dirty cloths and a number of other thing, so tonight I'm staying in a hotel. There they are having problems with water in the room. The warm water leaks into the cold so when flushing the toilette the tank became hot and the water in the tap is not drinkable. The importance of water. Hmmm...

I went out a while to see the town. Then Birgitta phoned. I had to dig up the phone from my bag and remove it from its case. Birgitta had not been home when I tried to phone her earlier. After the call I continued and admired a hot air balloon and the fine old fortress walls of the inne city. But walking down from the walls I realized that I was missing the case for my mobile phone. So I went searching. And to my happy surprise, there it was, at the middle of the sidewalk seemingly untouched. And the best of all, my hearing aids inside were fully OK. I felt so happy and grateful when I went to eat.

Este era en bueno día. Vi los Pirineos por la primera vez. Trové sitios para comer. Solo unas gotas de lluvia. Pero este día estaba el día de la mujer misteriosa. Encontré ella durante algunos días. Pendientes doradas en sus orejas, mochila ligero y ropas de buenos colores. Vi también como otra mujer que, creo, suportaba ella usando un coche. Creo que ella solo hable francés. ¿Sea una artista famosa que desea caminar este camino?